町中のTHE食堂なのだ！ : Ikoi Shokudo

I discovered that a cafe opened in Hidaka Town Kuratomi through a new store announcement, but their website only lists hot dogs and hamburgers on the menu. So I decided to visit for a double-header: first to have their Katsuramen, followed by dessert. The cafe is located across from a large hospital, with its name boldly painted on the wall—truly reminiscent of a Showa-era diner. The atmosphere inside captures that nostalgic vibe, making it a comforting space for someone like me, born in the Showa era. It seems the cafe is run by a couple, with the husband serving drinks. There are three flavors of Katsuramen: miso, salt, and soy sauce. Although I rarely eat Sapporo ramen with soy sauce, I have a strong belief that soy sauce is the perfect match for Katsuramen’s broth. I had a previous experience at Mangetsu Shokudo in Fukkō when I had their soy sauce Katsuramen, which confirmed this for me. Therefore, I ordered the soy sauce Katsuramen, while my wife, a miso fan, chose the miso Katsuramen. While waiting, I noticed a surprising number of signed photos on the tatami mat room walls for a rural diner. Upon closer inspection, I found signatures from Masahiro Tanaka from high school days and from Hayashiya Kikusan when he was still known as Kikuzō, suggesting this place may be quite well-known. Back when the JR Hidaka line was operational, I imagine there was more foot traffic, but weekends when the town hall and hospital are closed are rather quiet. Now, as the soy sauce Katsuramen was served, I took a slurp of the broth and exclaimed, "Just as I thought, Katsuramen is meant to be soy sauce—this is delicious!" The fat from the coating melded into the broth, enhancing its creaminess and flavor. This sensation reminded me of eating warm tanuki soba, as the fat adds a wonderful richness. The noodles are the non-aged type from Nishiyama Seimen, which pairs perfectly with the broth and adds to the overall taste. The katzu is on the thinner side but remains intact, not falling apart in the broth. The pork has a good bite to it which, while it is submerged in the soup, offers a tender texture rather than being overly soft. My wife also seemed satisfied with her miso Katsuramen, noting that the broth was delicious. To think that such a delightful Katsuramen is priced at JPY 800, while regular ramen is JPY 600 across all three flavors—reflecting prices from 40 years ago. "This place has been around for a long time," the wife responded with a smile. Here lies a diner that has grown together with the community.