シェフが替わってもやはりユカワタンは最高でした : Breston Court Yukawatan

We visited Hoshinoya Karuizawa with our daughters and their partners, a total of 6 people. It's been 11 years since my wife and I have been to Hoshinoya Karuizawa, and we also stayed at Breston Court and dined at Yukawatan four years ago. Back then, Chef Hamada was in charge, but he has since moved to Hoshinoya Tokyo. Sadly, we can no longer enjoy his signature amuse-bouche at Yukawatan. Nevertheless, I was curious to see how the restaurant has changed under the new chef. To conclude, even with a new chef, Yukawatan remains outstanding. Just a 5-minute drive from Hoshinoya, we were welcomed by a waiter as we walked down a forest path. "How about starting with some dishes and an aperitif outside?" This was such a stylish touch. "Today is a perfect day; it’s not raining, it’s cool, and there are no bugs." Karuizawa felt wonderfully refreshing, a stark contrast to the scorching heat elsewhere in Japan. Beside the outdoor stage, there was a warm firewood setup. Those who don’t drink enjoyed a non-alcoholic peach cocktail, while the drinkers toasted with a peach champagne cocktail, kickstarting the amazing ten amuse-bouches that exemplified modern French cuisine. After about an hour and as darkness fell, we returned inside for another toast with glasses of wine. The menu offered only a chef's selection course at JPY 18,000. [b: Carp marinated and smoked, paired with radishes and herbs]; who knew carp could be so delicious... [b: Blessings of the Satoyama]; an astonishing about 60 varieties of vegetables, all prepared with different cooking methods. At that moment, I felt like I had become a vegetarian. However, the enzymes from those vegetables helped me reach the finish without feeling stuffed—an unexpected bonus. [b: Cherry Salmon]; two magnificent cherry salmons, from which we shared the best parts among six people. The sauce was stunning. [b: Pigeon wrapped in squab, accompanied by arugula and summer truffle risotto]; this dish was visually impactful! They actually cooked a pigeon inside a pig's bladder! Thankfully, the bladder served only as a cooking device. [b: Assorted cheeses] [b: Cherry composition] [b: Chocolate glass paired with roasted apricots and compote] [b: Forest sweets]; a variety of petits fours presented in a chef’s original contraption resembling a birdhouse. Every time the box opened, it was a delightful surprise. Since there was too much to consume on-site, some could be taken home. Overall, it was a magnificent dinner that lasted nearly four hours. The new Chef Matsumoto seems to have come to Yukawatan from Chez Tomo in Ginza. His dishes are brimming with originality, and the service from the waitstaff and sommeliers was impeccable. Their gentlemanly behavior and engaging conversations further amplified the experience, all while taking advantage of the beautiful Karuizawa setting. In terms of cost-performance ratio, it was outstanding, earning a perfect score in my evaluation. P.S.) A waiter said, "Last time you visited..." When I asked how he knew, he replied, "We keep notes on guests' preferences, so we can avoid serving dishes they may not like." Impressive! The same applies to Hoshinoya; what we discussed at Yukawatan was shared at Hoshinoya, and even staff members seeing me for the first time called me by name. I thought to myself, "Wow, is this Aman?"

I was inspired to visit Yukawatan in Karuizawa during the Obon holiday on a lucky day in April, just before my trip to Italy. First, I called Yukawatan to make a reservation. Since I had already experienced "Hoshinoya," which is also part of the Hoshino Resort, I decided to book the best room available online at "Breston Court," the hotel with Yukawatan as its main restaurant. Since I was going to Karuizawa, I didn't want to waste the opportunity with just one night, so I called the famous "Manpei Hotel" and reserved a room in the historic Alps building. After dining French cuisine, I planned to enjoy a teppan-yaki steak at Manpei. All that was left was to wait for the Obon holiday, although I was anxious about what would happen with Typhoon No. 11. Yukawatan is a French restaurant. "Yukawa" is the river that flows through Karuizawa and the Hoshino Resort area. The word "tan" in French means time. It seems to mean "the time flowing in Yukawa." The chef of Yukawatan, Mr. Toshiyuki Hamada, won a bronze medal at the 2013 Bocuse d'Or World Culinary Championship. This was an incredible achievement. The Bocuse d'Or is the most prestigious award in French cuisine, akin to the World Cup for chefs, where 24 chefs from around the world, having won national and regional competitions, compete. Yukawatan's theme is "water game," a concept that seems to not exist in the West, yet feels quite natural in fish-abundant Japan. French cuisine that incorporates local fish such as those caught in the Yukawa. The confidence in this notion is genuine, as Yukawatan received the highest score in the fish category at the recent Bocuse d'Or. Furthermore, among the 100 restaurants listed in the domestic section of the Foodie Top 100 restaurants, only eight are French, including Yukawatan. Photo 1) The room at Breston Court is a cottage, so I called the front desk to arrange for a car to pick me up in time for my reservation at Yukawatan. The restaurant is a standalone house discreetly located deep within the forest paths of the resort grounds. Photo 2) The award certificate from the Bocuse d'Or. Photo 3) The high ceiling and spacious windows offer a view of the illuminated garden surrounded by trees. The cozy interior accommodates nine tables and 24 seats, tastefully decorated for a relaxed dining experience. Photo 4) Open for dinner only, I chose the JPY 15,000 course, which includes the specialty amuse-bouche. I toasted with a Grand Cru champagne, Chinchilla, while my partner opted for grape juice. Photo 5) The first dish is an appetizer. A fritter of open fish is skewered on a rock with incisions. The presentation is unique, and the texture and seasoning, reminiscent of shrimp crackers, are excellent. Photo 6) Then it arrived! Yukawatan's specialty: small dishes served on a round stone. I picked them up with my hands and enjoyed them in one bite. From left to right, there are six items: amuse, appetizer, soup, fish dish, meat dish, and dessert. This allows you to savor a small full course. Each dish has a different stone temperature to match, and the soup is enveloped in a membrane that breaks open in the mouth. Both the appearance and flavor are stunning—truly artistic and moving, surpassing the micro-menu of "San Pau." Photo 7) I hesitated to eat them; they were too beautiful to consume. Photo 8) Next is the appetizer: sweetfish and eggplant. The use of negative space on the plate is not uncommon, but it exhibits a refined sense of style. Photo 9) Now for the soup. What could this be? It looks like pumpkin... Photo 10) It is indeed pumpkin! Opening the lid reveals a cold pumpkin soup wrapped in a membrane made from the scooped-out flesh. The seeds on top seem to be pumpkin seeds. This idea is magnificent, very interesting, and delicious. Photo 11) The fish dish is also part of the water game. The circle in the center is not a plate pattern but sauce. It is delightful. Photo 12) By the way, this is something to spread on the bread made from tofu and cream cheese. Photo 13) The butter and wasabi butter come in unique shapes. Photo 14) I ordered a glass of red wine. The BEAU PAYSAGE "TSUGANE" la montagne 2010 was served. It's a Japanese wine and delicious. Photo 15) For my main course, I chose the fish dish, wrapped in vegetables. It is visually unique and tasty. Photo 16) My partner had the meat dish, which offers three varieties of flavor on a skewer. Photo 17) And here comes the coffee and tea for dessert. I chose coffee made from Grand Cru beans stored in bottle-like containers, crafted specifically for Yukawatan. Photo 18) My partner's dessert features melon and gelato. Melon is simply delicious on its own. Photo 19) Mine is a sorbet of sangria filled with an abundance of blueberries. Refreshing! Photo 20) Finally, the petite fours arrive! I was astonished by the array of pastries that filled the table. There were an impressive eleven varieties for one person. The leaves in front are chocolate treats. In French courses, the petite fours often arrive when you are already nearly full, a detail my friends and I refer to as "harassment," but such harassment is delightful. I took the adult candy from the front home but polished off everything else. Photo 21) On the way back, we walked through the illuminated forest back to the cottage. The dishes were spectacularly beautiful, not betraying the expectations of being ranked 3rd in the world. I plan to revisit Karuizawa again just to return to Yukawatan.