Undiscovered Scotland

 

The Isle of Mull is the second largest island in the Inner Hebrides, and its 2,800 or so residents live on an irregularly shaped island measuring some 30 miles from its most easterly point to its most westerly; and 27 miles from its most northerly point to its most southerly. Its highest point is the 966m or 3,169ft summit of Ben More: the only Munro not on the Scottish mainland or the Isle of Skye.

Mull is a wildly beautiful place. Accessible by ferry from Oban, Lochaline, or Kilchoan, there is plenty for visitors to see and do. Mull boasts attractive villages and mountains, and there are castles to visit for those wanting a more relaxing time. The island seems larger than it appears on a map, because of the limitations of the mostly single track road network: though many find this part of the attraction. And you will find the people you meet on Mull to be extremely welcoming and friendly.

The ferry from Oban arrives at Craignure and from here visitors used to be able to take the short trip on the Isle of Mull Railway to Torosay Castle and its excellent formal gardens. The castle was sold in 2011, however, and is no longer open to the public: and the railway has permanently closed.

On the opposite side of Duart Bay from Torosay Castle is the imposing Duart Castle, which most visitors first see from the ferry en route to Mull. In Craignure you also find Torosay Church.

North of Craignure and after passing the remains of the ancient chapel at Pennygown, the twin track road runs out at Salen. A little north of Salen and dominating the shoreline is the imposing ruin of Aros Castle.

The largest settlement on Mull is Tobermory, originally founded as a fishing station. It lies on the east coast towards the northern end of the island. Today it is a favourite tourist halt, its many coloured buildings making for an attractive seaside picture. Attractions within and around the village include Tobermory Distillery, An Tobar Arts Centre, Mull Museum and the Church of Our Lady, Star of the Sea. Tobermory is also where the ferry from Kilchoan lands. Until 2005 Tobermory was the location for the filming of the BBC children's series Balamory. This continues to bring significant numbers of additional visitors to the island and to Tobermory, so making booking ahead of ferries and accommodation particularly important.

West of the main road from Craignure to Tobermory, northern Mull can be wild and remote, and the roads narrow and single track. A twisty drive from Tobermory leads to Dervaig, an attractive planned village that is also home to the very striking Kilmore Church. Further around the coast is the beach at Calgary, widely regarded as the best in Mull. South of here lies the scattered settlement of Kimninian, complete with a fascinating church.

This looks across Loch Tuath to the island of Ulva. Ulva is well worth visiting in its own right, and is home to a fascinating heritage centre and museum at Sheila's Cottage, and to Ulva Church.

Further south, and only two miles across a narrow isthmus from Salen, is the scattered settlement of Gruline. Here you find the Macquarie Mausoleum and St Columba's Church.

Mull's central and southern areas are more wild and mountainous than the north, being home to Ben More, the only Munro (individual mountain over 3,000ft) outwith the Scottish mainland or Skye. Individual settlements worth visiting include Croggan, Lochbuie, Pennyghael, Bunessan, complete with its parish church, and Fionnphort, where you also find the ferry for Iona.